La Union’s Surf Culture is Shifting. Are We Gaining More or Losing What Matters?

Remember when San Juan, La Union (or Elyu), was just a sleepy surf town with a handful of hostels and carinderias? When mornings meant chasing the perfect wave, and afternoons were spent napping on the sand, sunburnt and salty? When the best post-surf meal was a ₱50 tapsilog by the roadside, and nightlife meant drinking by the beach with new friends, guitars, and a shared bottle of rum?

The air smelled of barbecue and salt water, and the only thing louder than the crashing waves was the laughter of strangers-turned-barkada.

Well, I do.

The last time I was in San Juan was in 2019, when I joined NLEX Lakbay Norte 9, a media tour showcasing the best of North Luzon (Yes ako po yan noon hehe). Back then, I met Glynis, who was managing Little Surfmaid, one of LU’s pioneer accommodations. Fast forward to today, and she’s now behind La Ud, a new beachfront hotspot redefining the way people experience La Union.

La Ud Lodge is the new little nook that you might want to check out the next time you're in Elyu. Beachfront access pa!

This town is evolving—faster than ever. Posh beach clubs now stand beside budget-friendly hostels, food parks serve up fusion flavors, and the crowd has shifted from hardcore surfers to a mix of creatives, digital nomads, and weekend warriors.

But here’s the question: Has La Union’s soul changed, or is it simply growing up?

On our latest visit, Zed and I explored some of the newest spots in town—places that reflect this shift while still keeping that unmistakable LU charm.

1. The Circle Hostel: Where Community and Culture Still Thrive

Long before boutique hotels and high-end resorts popped up, The Circle Hostel was the go-to for surfers and backpackers looking for an affordable, community-driven stay. Now, after a recent renovation, it’s better than ever—brighter murals, comfier spaces, and the same welcoming, eco-conscious vibe.

The Circle Hostel is a must for anyone looking to be immersed in La Union's culture, community, and arts.

What’s new? Salo Salo, their in-house dining spot, brings people together over communal meals, and they now serve Katipunan Ale, a locally brewed beer perfect for sunset sessions.

That night, we found ourselves right in the middle of Circle Hostel’s music and arts festival—live music filling the air, murals coming to life under fairy lights, and the smell of sizzling bagnet kare-kare from Salo Salo making our stomachs rumble. With a cold IPA in one hand and a dynamite roll in the other, we listened to local artists jam under the stars, feeling that old LU magic all over again.

This visit was special for another reason, too. Zed first met Raf of MAD Travel through Ziggy, the founder of Circle Hostel. And after nearly a decade of knowing each other online, Zed and Ziggy finally met in person.

📍 Where: Urbiztondo, San Juan

💰 Budget: ₱₱

2. La Ud: A Fresh Take on La Union’s Westside

Named after the Ilocano word for “west,” La Ud Lodge is the ultimate beachfront spot for good drinks, affordable stays, and incredible soft tacos. Run by Glynis and Agoo, who Zed first met at Kahuna years ago, it offers a laid-back yet stylish space where you can enjoy a cold beer with sand between your toes.

Lucky for us, we got the last of the three rooms they had. Clean, no-frills accommodations with good vibes all around—exactly what you need for a quick beach escape.

Zed and I with new found friends (who are also Elyu resort and restaurant owners) at La Ud Lounge. And yes, Gin Bilog yan!

With its central beachfront location, it’s a prime spot for both lazy afternoons and lively nights. Whether you’re coming for the food or just want to chill with a view of the waves, La Ud feels like the new heartbeat of LU and definitely the best spot to catch Elyu’s famous sunset!

This breathtaking sunset by La Ud's beachfront. GV kung GV!

📍 Where: San Juan, La Union

💰 Budget: ₱₱

3. Taaw Beach Club: The Luxe Underground Scene of LU

If you’re looking for a more upscale experience without the stiff dress codes of city clubs, Taaw Beach Club is the place to be. By day, it’s a stylish beachfront restaurant with posh interiors, but by 10 PM, the resort transforms into a hip underground club.

The very IG worthy beachdeck of Taaw Beach Club in Elyu. Bali vibes much? Can't wait for the rooms to open!

With a gin & tonic in hand, we found ourselves vibing to deep house and trance beats, the resounding waves providing the perfect backdrop to the night. Taaw regularly brings in rotating DJs, from La Union locals to Manila’s underground scene. That night, Belarusian DJ Nica was on deck, spinning alongside some Manila guys who run hip clubs and drinking spots in Poblacion.

And if you’re not quite ready to call it a night? Rooms are opening soon, but for now, you can stay as long as you like—whether by the beach deck, bean bag sun tables, or by the pool. Just order from the restaurant, and you’re good to go.

Sunset Happy Hour is also quite generous, running from 2 PM to 6 PM every day.

Taaw Beach Club Elyu is just IG worthy in every nook and cranny.

For a different side of LU, head to Hiraya Sunset Hill Restaurant, a quiet retreat 20 minutes away. Run by Oliver and Rochelle, this hidden gem offers breathtaking sunset views paired with sustainable dining. It’s a reminder that La Union’s beauty isn’t just about the waves—it’s also in the quiet, unspoiled corners waiting to be discovered.

📍 Where: San Juan, La Union

💰 Budget: ₱₱₱

4. Fatwave Restobar: Where the Party Never Ends

Looking for a fun night out? Fatwave Restobar is where it’s at.

This beachfront spot has everything—live music, DJs, great cocktails, and an electric crowd. It’s the kind of place where you can start the night with casual beers and end up dancing till the early hours.

Whether you’re celebrating a surf victory or just catching up with friends, Fatwave captures the evolving energy of San Juan—new, exciting, but still undeniably local.

📍 Where: Urbiztondo, San Juan

💰 Budget: ₱₱

5. Dinosaur & Bougainvillea Park: A Hidden Gem Beyond the Beach

If you’re looking for something beyond the usual surf and party scene, take a side trip to Dinosaur & Bougainvillea Park in Naguilian.

Here, massive dinosaur sculptures stand against a backdrop of lush bougainvillea gardens, making it a fun, quirky escape just a short drive from the coast. It’s a refreshing reminder that there’s more to explore in La Union than just the beach.

📍 Where: Naguilian, La Union

💰 Budget: ₱

So, Has La Union Changed?

Yes.

But maybe that’s not a bad thing.

San Juan is no longer just a surf town—it’s a destination for travelers of all kinds. Whether you're here to chase waves, discover new flavors, or dance till sunrise, there's a spot waiting for you.

It’s changed, sure—but maybe that just means there’s more to love.

So, the real question is—where do you see yourself in this evolving La Union?

Tag your friends, plan your trip, and experience the new LU for yourself. We’ll save you a seat by the beach. 🌊 As for us, next surf town series stop: SIARGAO?